Showing posts with label Portuguese Colonial Fusion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Portuguese Colonial Fusion. Show all posts

Goan Verdura (Caldine Style)



Another colonial fusion dish that evolved during the Portuguese colonial time in Goa. The name is the give away for this dish, Verdura in Portuguese means vegetables and that is exactly this dish is all about. Its a vegetable dish similar to the Caldine dish prepared with mild spices and coconut. The difference between these two dishes is that, the Cladine is only cooked with Coconut milk with spices infused in it, while the Verdura has the coconut ground to a fine paste with the spices in it. However both curries are mild and not hot.

Prawns are usually added to this dish to provide additional flavour but can be left out all together, although I must say the prawns really lend this dish that flavour punch and you should make every effort to add them. This dish can be cooked with various vegetables, here I have cooked with Cauliflower, peas and carrot. However its also goes well with other vegetables like Kokon Doodhi (Bottle Gourd), Pumpkin or even Bread Fruit, cooked individually and not a combination.

This is a dish that evolved with Portuguese noblemen in Goa. What is interesting is how these dishes spread to the masses in Goa. Most Portuguese households in Goa (Even the Goan elites themselves) depended heavily on local helpers and cook to work in running their homes. Some of these people were excellent in the kitchens and produced not only Goan delicacies but had gained enough knowledge of Portuguese dishes to perfectly cook them to the Portuguese masters delight. 

Goans are known to celebrate in style by throwing a banquet in their own way and needed good cooks to prepare the meals, these experienced cooks eventually prepared these new recipes that they had gained knowledge of, for the birthday parties, baptism parties, weddings or Church feasts of their own family & friends and it caught on with the masses to show off their new found taste within their own circle of friends, eventually these cooks (Mest or Mestin as they were known locally) got hired or invited to cook meals for others and so forth the recipes spread through out Goa and are now favorite among Goans all over and something cherished very much as they have enjoyed these dishes from their childhood.  Its one Veg Dish that is always served during marriage celebration Parties in Goa at the Bikreache Jevonn or Mato as its called in South Goa. Goans cooking vegetables usually call these type of dishes simply as Bhaji however only for this particular dish they call it Verdura or Verdur (Portuguese name for vegetables) indicating its origins with the Portuguese homes of the time. This same story is true for many dishes like caramel pudding, Vindalho, Sera Dura, Bebinca, Caldine, etc. A lot of actual Portuguese dishes without any fusion of flavors are still cooked at homes of the Goans that you may not see at local Restaurants.

Coming back to this Dish Verdura, to make this dish you will need.


Ingredients:

200gms Shrimps Cleaned and deveined
Vegetables of choice (Cut to Size)

For the Masala:

100gms fresh/Frozen grated coconut
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
2 garlic cloves
1 inch ginger
Small bunch of coriander leaves (Don't want the curry to be too green)
2 green chilies
1 tsp. tamarind Paste
8 peppercorns
6 cloves
1 inch cinnamon stick

For the Preparation:
1 tomato Finely chopped
1 onion chopped
1 tsp Salt
Oil
Grind all of the Masala ingredients to a fine paste and keep aside.
In a cooking pan, fry the onion till translucent or nicely brown. add tomatoes and continue to fry. once its nicely fried, add the prawns and cook till the prawns are nicely turned pink and have release its flavours, in about 2 minutes.
At this stage add the vegetables, salt and mix well and then add the ground spice mix, add a cup of water and allow it cook for 10 minutes. Now add 1/2 cup of thick coconut milk (Optional), however adding coco milk gives a smooth finish and richer taste. Let it cook for an additional 5 minutes. When the dish is ready and cooked well, it looks like, as shown below and has a thick gravy of coconut.
Its best had with rice or Pao (Local Bread) or Pita bread will also go well.


Note: Some people prefer to extract only the spice infused coco milk of the spice paste by running the spice mix through a sieve or a muslin cloth like its done in Caldine Curry and add this thick spiced coco milk to the preparation. Either way the cooking method does not change a lot. I like it both ways with the whole coconut spice mix or just the spiced coco milk.

Cafreal de Galinha


Have you been to Goa and experienced Goan Food, than you will instantly recognize this dish, called  Cafreal de Galinha or Chicken Cafreal. Its a tantalising dish that is quite popular in Goa at Restaurants or local Goan Homes. The history and the origins of this dish is quite fascinating.
The Dish or the preparation style of Cafreal is believed to have been originated in the far west off the coast of Goa in what was known as Kafraria in the present day Southern Mozambique and North east of Modern day South Africa. The People inhabiting this place were known as Kafirs by the Arabs before any European coloniser had arrived in Africa. The Term Kafir itself was used by the Arabs to indicate any people who did not believe in Islamic God.

When the Portuguese arrived in 1498, the Portuguese continued to call these people Cafre in Portuguese Lanaguage. Cafreal refers to the people of Cafraria or Cafre people. This naming was introduced by the Portuguese to its other colonies in Asia, in present day Goa. To this day Goans refer to people of African Origin as Khapri in their local Konkani Language and similarly in other Portuguese colonies like Srilanka.  Thus the dish is aptly named Cafreal, indicating its origins. Its also believed that Cafreal is another take on the famous Piri Piri Chicken that also has its origin in Mozambique and has Portuguese Colonial Influences. The Cafreal evolved as an offshoot of this dish where it got developed by adding other Indian Spices and Herbs got added like Coriander that gives it a rich green colour as it travelled with the Portuguese explorers.

Cafreal now is closely associated with Goan Cuisine rather than African as its evolved significantly than its original counter part, the Piri Piri. In some parts of the world there will be no distinction between these two types of dishes and simply known as Piri Piri. However in Goa they are two distinct dishes, Piri Piri is Red and Cafreal as Green. 
Cafreal is generally cooked in a BBQ style, whether grilled over fire or in a Pan. However in Goa this Cafreal spice mix has given rise to other dishes like the Chicken Green curry using Cocounut milk or Beef Green curry, of course with some variations to suit each dish being prepared.
Now you know the historical evolution of this, it makes even more intriguing to try it on.






Goan Vindalho

The Vindalho conjures up memories of Goan life, Holidays at the beach and an instant exotic feeling. This is one Goan dish that essentially sums up the fusion nature of Goan Food. Its also the most romaticised recipe to indicate Portuguese Influence on Goan cooking. However its also a dish that has been awfully dishonored in Britain; knowingly or unknowingly. What is served in many British Indian Restaurant is nowhere close to what this dish is all about.

I have read that this dish has been distorted by British Indian Cooks serving the British people a dish called Vindaloo, a corruption of the name Vindalho. Many cooks think this dish is cooked with potatoes, this can be explained in a simple manner, most Indians outside Goa know potatoes as Aloo. In Goa however, Potatoes are called botat. Since the Vindalho sounds a bit like Aloo at the end and hence most Indians outside Goa relate it as a potato dish when its not and this is also the reason for the name corruption. This has led now to accept both names as valid names for the original name Vindalho. The Vindalho was introduced to the British by Goan cooks that worked in Bombay and other British controlled cities during its long colonial rule in India. By the Time British arrived in India (1800's), Goan people were already Europeanised by Portuguese Christian missionaries and had no religion affiliated restrictions to eating Pork or Beef like most other Indians at the time and hence they chose to employ Goan cooks. As the dish was carried with the Britisher to other places within the Indian sub continent, the name and the dish has been corrupted over time.
Vindaloo is come to be known in UK as the most spiciest of Curries. Its a favorite among young British men wanting to show off their bravado, by proving they can handle the spiciest curry. Vindalho, howerver is anything but the spiciest curry. It is in fact a dish that balances the 3 different taste; Sweet, Sour and Spice. Its a dish that evolved in Goa under the Portuguese Influences since 1510 AD. 
Vindalho originates from the Portuguese way of cooking meat (Carne) in Wine (Vinho) and Garlic (Alho) and has traveled far and wide during the Portuguese Spice voyages in the Far east and Brazil.
At the time when Portuguese landed in Goa (India), there was no wine making culture, the Ingenious cooks at the time substituted Vine with Vinegar made in Goa out of Coconut sap called Toddy, in order to make their food taste a little like home for the early Portuguese sailors and Christian Missionaries from Spain and Portugal.
This mixed with Goan traditions of using other spices like black pepper, Cinnamon gives this dish its unique taste and has evolved over time into this delectable dish. Also the red chilies used are mostly mild chilies, which are known for their fiery red colour but without the pungent heat. Its traditionally made with Pork and the combination is heavenly with vinegar going really well with Pork Flavors. You can also cook this dish with Chicken for equally good experience however my recommendation is to try with Pork. Also the fact the Vindalho to Goans Instantly means the dish is cooked with Pork. Vindalho evolved from a Portuguese tradition of cooking with Wine and Garlic as stated earlier and one such dish that uses this method is Carne de Porco de Alentejana.
I already have a cheats version of Vindalho for those hard pressed for time and want a quick fix recipe, on my Blog but will bring out a recipe soon on the Original.

Goan coconut cake (Batica/baath)

This Cake goes by several names possibly due to the name corruption over a period of time. Baath, Batica or Baatk all mean the same and are indicative of a succulent cake made of Coconut and Semolina (Rawa) or Rulao as its called locally.

What  you see on the below star Plater are small baath cakes (Bolinhas), were one of my favorite sweets my mom made during Christmas. I liked my mom's the most as she had perfected this cake which she baked every Christmas without fail and also some other times during the year but always a a regular for Christmas. What is Interesting about Bolinhas, is the name. In Portuguese Bolinhas means a small or little cake. Its like saying cupcakes in English. However in Goa, Bolinhas only refers to small cakes of Batica and nothing else. Although in true Portuguese bolinhas would be any small cakes, the term "Bol" meaning cakes. "Inhas refering something small or little.

Interestingly My mothers name was Terezinha meaning little Tereza or Little Sweet Tereza. In Portuguese, if you want to call someone fondly, you would add "inha" if you are girl or "inho" if you are boy. Remember Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho. 

This particular Bolinhas and Baath cake will always be dear to me as this was the last one my mom and me baked together and hence the memory will last a life time with me. 



Goan Bebinca with Vanilla Icecream


Another delicious cake that evolved as a fusion of European and Goan cooking.  All time favourite among goan desserts and aptly known as the Queen of Desserts. Its a layered cake that takes a lot of labour to make but once you have mastered it, its sure to make you very popular amongst your family and friends specially at Christmas time as they would flock to you to place their orders for this succulent Christmas speciality. Bebinca is a pudding textured cake and not fluffy like a normal baked cake.

It goes by several other names like Bebique or bibik. It is popularly known to have been a dessert created by a nun named Bebiana at the Santa Monica Convent in Old Goa (Velha Goa), a place just outside the capital city of Goa, Panaji or Panjim. Incidentally Old Goa was the former capital of Goa before Panjim was named the new capital after a outbreak of Plague at Old Goa in the 18th Century. Old Goa was also the first places that the Portuguese settled after a short war broke out with the Portuguese and Adil Shah who ruled Goa before Portuguese established themselves in Goa. It was once called the Rome of the East as the Portuguese built large cathedrals in a cluster. Although most of the building were ravaged by passing of time, however the large churches still remain standing and is magnificent place to visit. Its now designated as a UNESCO world Heritage site and maintained by the Archealogical Society of India (ASI), though its a active religious site of worship for Catholic Goans and other Christian. The Basilica of Bom Jesus is world famous as it is the final resting place (Mortal Remains) of St. Francis Xavier, a Jesuit Spanish priest from 16th Century and one of the first to preach Christianity in Goa and else where in Asia including China. For a virtual tour of Old Goa monuments visit ASI Virtual Tour.
http://asigoacircle.gov.in/
Photo Credit: ASI Goa Circle Website.
The bebinca was made as a 7 layered cake to represent the 7 hills of Lisbon. It was served to a visiting priest by the nun, who enjoyed the cake very much that, he commented that it needs even more layers. So the cake is no more baked as a seven layer cake but rather up to each one baking it, it can even have up to 16 layers. The fact that the cake takes almost all day long its up to the patience level of each baker to bake as many he/she can bake.

The cake has travelled with Portuguese to other regions that the Portuguese traded with like Malaysia, Singapore and Macau. I have read that there is layered cake speciality in Indonesia called kak lapi that was introduced to them by the East India Dutch Company, possibly a variation on Bebinca. There are writings on the internet that the reverse flow applies (Malaysia to Goa) to Bebinca however I think its incorrect for the fact that Bebinca was possibly developed much before in the early 16th Century, as Goa was Portuguese territory since 1510, much before the Dutch arrived in Asia and also that some of the Dutch colonies were actually ex-Portuguese territories that the Dutch captured from the Portuguese themselves. So the reverse theory may be hard to believe. Goa was the HQ of Portuguese trading empire in Asia, so it much easier to believe that the dish originated here and travelled else where and also the fact that the other variations in Asian countries mentions the invention or introduction mainly in the 18th Century almost two centuries later than Portugal's arrival in Goa. It could also mean that the other Asian variation on Layered cakes do not have any connection directly with Bebinca but rather to European traditions of baking cakes and may very well have developed independently. It would be intriguing to know from others.


Nevertheless Bebinca is imbibed in Goan food culture and a favourite among goans anywhere in the world. Baking a Bebinca is truly a labour of love and involves a lot of patience. I'm not the one who can wait a whole day or half to bake a cake. It involves baking a layer at time allowing it cool down to add another one than bake again and continue till you have the desired number of layers. Its not hard to bake this cake just needs time and effort and there are no short cuts for that perfect Bebinca or Bebik/Bibik in short, as the Goans would call it fondly.


The Main Ingredients for this dish are :
Granulated white sugar
Coconut Milk
Egg yolk                                   
All-Purpose Flour                                    
Nutmeg powder                                  
Salt                                    
Ghee or butter                         
Sugar caramel

I'm the one who will enjoy this dish from somebody baking it for me or buying off the shelf at stores (Not the best though). If I were to ever bake one. I will surely update this blog article. But if you wish to bake one yourself there are ample recipes on the internet.

You never know I may have a change of mind and bake one soon. so subscribe to this blog to get the latest updates.

If you are inclined to know more about the history of Old Goa, Please visit the ASI Website. They have ton of information and picture with historical anecdotes.